At one point, in the late ’60s and ’70s, ÅŒtepoti Dunedin held the record for the most shark attacks per capita in the world. That was a horrific time to be a surfer in Otago, but it coincided with the era that brought us one of New Zealand’s greatest enclaves of surfers ever.
Known as hard men and women, these surfers shot to notoriety on a national scale – riding waves at some of the most gnarly and sharkiest spots. They didn’t just throw caution to the wind; they met the elements head-on. Culturally, that group of surfers – and many of them Box of Light readers today – went on to explore exotic parts of the world and open up access to many new waves throughout Indonesia and the Pacific.
Many of them still surf today, and I wonder what they make of the old ding-a-ling on the esplanade at St Clair ringing out across the beachfront after sitting in silence for so long. It rang three times last week. Twice for a shark sighting and once for TVNZ’s recreation of the first two moments.
It’s scary to think there might be a great white exploring our coastline, but in reality, they are probably always there. My theory is that they’ve evolved since the ’60s and ’70s and have learned the difference between a human and a seal. At least, that helps me feel more comfortable jumping in the water for a surf.
My advice: observe the other animals in the water, avoid dusk and early dawn surfs and murky water whenever you can, or until these sightings subside again. Stay safe out there.
See you at the beach, Derek
PS As you read this, I am cramped into a Malaysian Airlines flight headed to Indonesia. My annual pilgrimage to the remote Mentawai Islands is one of the absolute highlights of my year with my friends from Sumatran Surfariis aboard the beloved Mahogany – a 26m Pinisi. The forecast is looking great, and we are very likely to be heading beyond where the map ends, so transmission may be a little patchy for a few weeks. Stay tuned …