September 30th 2025: The art of tube riding

I've often thought tube riding is a science of physics and hydraulics mixed with instinct and bravado. But maybe it's nothing to do with science at all – maybe it's an art – and an elusive one at that.

Over the years, I've been lucky to photograph some of the best tube riders in the business. One US-born Raglan surfer who had spent a lot of time in Hawaii, Ben Lacy, really changed what I thought was possible in the tube. On one trip to Raglan, we found a hard barrelling right-hander. It was heavy and scary and intimidating. But not for Ben. He was weaving through the sections inside the barrel like he was reading its mind. He could even navigate around the corners in the barrel – as if travelling from one room to the next. 

In Samoa, surfing the same Code Red swell that rolled into Teahupo'o that year, he was masterful. Taking off late and deep and unapologetically comfortable on some of the scariest waves I've seen. He had found the magic formula for thriving inside the barrel. 

Back home, Jimi Crooks would have to be one of our best – and with a backhand that comes so easily for him, it looks like he's also tapping into some sort of mystical connection. After one session at Aramoana, Jimi gave me a run-through on how he does it. I've tried to weave his wisdom into my own time in the water (unsuccessfully), but I've also shared it with some of the grommets. 

The late Jamie Civil was the master, of course, especially on the bigger days at PK Bay, Aramoana, St Kilda ... everywhere really. His legacy has translated into this new crop of groms trying their best to channel some of his tube riding savvy. 

My own experience is challenging – I have a mental block that makes it hard for me to sniff out the right places on the wave to be. I know I'm supposed to be riding closeouts as far as I can, but in that instant my brain thinks of all the reasons I shouldn't do that.

I've had a front row seat into Keo's relationship with barrel riding. He's had some great advice by the best in the surf community, and he's run with it. He makes it look easy these days. He probably hasn't done a turn in six months, but if you throw a decent section at him, he'll find his way into a barrel. 

To me, it seems like once you have the magic formula, you never lose it. Barrel riding takes surfing to a whole new level and becomes an obsession of sorts. I'm looking forward to that day ... 

See you at the beach, Derek

PS We have four tickets to this weekend's Port Chalmers Seafood Festival to give away. To win, just jump on our Facebook or Instagram and tell us in the comments which coastal Otago seafood dish you'd cook if Nadia Lim was coming to your place for dinner. Winner announced at 5pm today. Good luck and see you there!