September 2nd 2025: Mentawai mind games

There's one wave in the Mentawai Islands that I have always had a healthy respect for ... or more correctly, a mild fear of. Until this year's trip, back in May and June, I'd never come face to face with it. Nearly all the footage I had seen showed a wildly hollow, heavy beast that lurches across corners of the reef like an out-of-control bendy bus. 

I wasn't sure I would even be able to swim there with my camera. The inside is shallow, and on a big day, a lot of water pours across the reef – a real challenge when caught inside with a waterhousing in one hand. The wave wraps into the sections so much that shooting from the shoulder is not a great option either. You have to be right in the zone to get the shot. 

Thankfully, we turned up during a playful swell that was a superb introduction to a wave like this. The left played into Keo's hands, and he was immediately navigating through the barrel sections. At one stage, I did get washed inside by a bigger set only to watch the next wave of the set pitch Keo right out of the lip. I was worried he might have got hurt on that one, but he popped up as happy as can be. A few waves later and another wipeout left him with a crook neck – a reminder that even at a playful size it's still a serious bit of water.

I had a few wide sets pin me to the reef, but found enough cracks and gaps to avoid a proper thrashing. The big sets came with a pre-surge that draws you back over the reef, which explains why the wave changes shape over four foot. I'm really not sure if I could swim it when it's big, but I'd love to try one day. 

Unbelievably, we shared this lineup with only three others: legendary surf coach Lee Winkler and one of his mates, and a boogie boarder dressed like Spiderman. This whole trip felt a lot like we had a Midas touch of sorts in terms of wave quality and lack of crowds.

Back to normal programming next week ...

See you at the beach, Derek.

PS I've been talking about running photo workshops for years now – apologies for all those on the waiting list for those – so I'm happy to announce that we have our first one scheduled for next month in the Catlins. If you want to spend four days in this incredible forgotten coast, then book in quick – we only have a few places on this first one. Check out the Catlins Photography Workshop right here.