Box of Light is made possible thanks to these visionaries:
Autumn surf in Dunedin is just so sublime. This past week has been predictable south swells and less predictable cameos by uncharted north east swells. Whether you were zigging or zagging it really did not matter – there were waves in every corner.
We chased the uninspiring promise of a small swell on the north coast that turned out to be the pretty special peak of a swell that was travelling beneath all the radars. Aramoana collected the best of it right across its breadth. Mostly straight, the occasional runner was worth sniffing out. If you played the patience game well, then you were rewarded for your mettle.
I watched as my mate Nic Luxon paddled late into one of the bigger sets of the day. He looked supremely on task but got pitched by the fast-jacking bowl. Committed to the bitter end, Lucko tried to stomp the freefall drop only to be consumed by the whitewater. A few minutes later I saw him crawling up the beach – his left ankle dangling off to one side. It was not a nice thing to witness. Lucko was his usual calm self. He heard a crack at the point of impact so knew there was some damage.
Turns out he broke the end off his fibula bone. He was awaiting surgery when we last chatted. Lucko's also a crazy good snowboarder so we hope he's fully healed by winter.
Our north coast session finished at a seldom surfed left that was reeling off like a Sumatran reef break. I didn't take my camera, but have some images permanently burnt into my mind. Wow.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS We've had a surge in interest for our limited edition prints these past few weeks. If you have a wall or a space at work, or at home, in need of a fresh image then check these out.
Box of Light is made possible thanks to these visionaries: