Travelling is pretty special for any surfer. There is something about exploring new waves and lineups, getting to know the locals, and learning the local nuances of each spot. In that discovery phase, you often feel out of sync with the tides, winds and crowds.
The more you surf a place the better you get at dialling it all in and nailing the sweet spots among the set of conditions you're dealt. You slowly develop a sense for a wave that replaces the thinking and overthinking with more of an instinct.
That is never more acute than when you return home. Back home in Dunedin, the banks and tides and winds do a familiar dance – cycling through the moods between good, better and best with a high level of predictability. You can happily sit out a bad tide and pounce when the wind shifts. Like some of the images in this week's edition – a late wind shift the signal to head over the hill for the last hour of light.
It always fascinates me who else is there in the water – who else read the tea leaves and called the moment. Those are the standout gems in a lifetime chasing waves.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS This summer has been super busy with sea lions with pups born all over the place and lots of mums and pups using the roads, parks and beaches as they evade detection by the big roaming males. If you do encounter a pup or a mum then give them space and be careful not to encroach. We're all kaitiaki to these marine mammals so if you see people doing stupid things to them, call them out on it, film it and send it to DOC (0800 DOC HOT, 0800 362 468) or the DCC. In the next few weeks, things will return to normal as the sea lions move up the Otago Peninsula to more remote beaches.