February 13th 2024: Misalignment

It couldn't have been scripted any better. An 18-second period swell measuring at 14,569 kJ at its peak, which would arrive around 11am – perfectly timed with the high tide for this remote and random reefbreak we'd had our eyes on. Add in light mellow winds and it was the type of forecast that you'd drop – well, pretty much anything for.

And that's the impetus that saw myself and ski driver Dave Wild heading into Southland for yet another adventure. We weren't alone. At least six additional ski teams had the same idea, although, thankfully, most of them were there to spectate. This isn't a wave that many can manage – especially at this size. And as we found out, that's for good reason ...

Yes, the swell was beautiful – not as big as we'd hoped, but a stunning sight as the sets rounded the corner and made their way to the reef. It should have been dreamy. But an incessant wind blew straight up the face at almost 20 knots. It was not in any of my forecasts. It was enough to completely ruin the lineup. It felt like we were at a concert and we'd suddenly gone deaf.

The surfers battled into a few. Then waited. Then tried again. Then reminded each other that the wind was due to puff out and eventually blow light offshore. We waited. James Cross and Joe Dirt decided to roll the dice in the lulls between the wind gusts. Joe found a big line on a bigger one and tucked in to get barreled, only to get completely pummeled and injure his knee. Crossy hooked him out of the impact zone like a pro, but the damage was done. We waited again as Joe massaged his ACL on the back of the ski, hoping to coax it into a few more waves.

Just as the tide got too low to surf the wind died off ... and that was that.

My intel had the swell dropping fast so Dave and I prepared to leave. Dave Lyons and Doug Young were convinced there might be a last play to be had on dusk. We weren't convinced and headed away. And right there, in that moment, we blew it.

By early evening the winds were exhaling gently over the lineup and the swell just kept coming. We were completely misaligned with the perfect moment of the swell – duped by sloppy forecasts and weary of rampant optimism that so often rides up front on these missions. And, this time at least, that was for good reason.

See you at the beach ... Derek

PS We had an issue with the Box of Light print ordering system that seems to have been plaguing the Box of Light website since November. We have now sorted that, but if you were one of the ones who got frustrated trying to order something from us well that's all remedied now. Jump back on to www.boxoflight.com where our prints are ready to brighten your day!