The seasons are definitely messed up. We're chasing waves in Bali at what should be the peak of the surf season and it feels more like the wet season ... without the rain. There has been one swell so far – before we arrived a week ago now.
The one we expected to encounter hasn't materialised. Some say blocked by a persistent high in the Indian Ocean, others just throw their hands into the air and shake their heads in puzzlement. It's not all bad. Even without a proper swell we have been exploring breaks in the 1-3 foot range.
For the kids, this is their first time to Bali so some up close time with the reefs in small conditions is okay. We've so far escaped any real damage.
That's quite a feat because it seems every surfer in Australia, Brazil and France has decided to visit. The limited swell has a kind of convergence affect – Uluwatu becomes the magnet and everyone wants a slice of glory from the illustrious wave. Even first-time surfers find their way out into the lineup to have a crack at the reef break. Not surprisingly, we saw a few who will be going home with permanent mementos in the form of reef grazes and cuts.
There is very little order out there when it is small. It's a kind of chaos that's frustrating and entertaining all at once.
Luckily, Bali itself is as sublime as ever with the friendly locals' smiles and laughter as contagious as always. The food is off the charts and the endless heat and sunshine a whole other level.
Our days start with a 5:30am dawnie and then we're in bed by 8:30pm ready to repeat the whole thing the next day. We could get used to this.
Sampai jumpa di pantai ... Derek
PS We have a few more days in Bali before heading to Nusa Lembongan for a week of manta rays, surfing and diving. More to follow ...