Yes, we bang on a lot about great waves but this past week has been extraordinary. This week's swells have been generated from the cyclones that have, thankfully, spared the North Island this time. They have swung wide into the Pacific Ocean. They're usually the best ones because they start off as north swells and clock around to the east and, if we're lucky, to the east-southeast. That basically means a perfect strike for our north coast and then our south coast surf spots.
That's exactly what happened this past week. Although I was working on a non-surf project on the North Coast last Friday, I couldn't bare to look at the waves. In my periphery I knew they were pumping and possibly as good, glassy and punchy as I have ever seen ... one of the point breaks at least. My work was consuming so much of my brain that day that I didn't have the capacity to throw in a board and wetsuit. So I didn't look and got my job done instead.
The weekend was a different matter. The winds dictated a south coast session was on the cards. So many spots were completely firing, but I opted for a wave over the hill that was doing its best impression of Indonesia. Big glassy walls and peaks without a drop of water out of place.
It was one of those days where everyone gets a memorable wave or two. I saw Johnny DeGraaf get about eight of them. He was on fire ... and so too was 10-year-old Max Wooffindin who almost outurfed his dad, Davy.
The vibe was incredible with a lot of smiles and laughter and arms made of noodles. It was hard to leave the lineup. You'd get halfway back to the carpark and realise that you just can't miss such pristine conditions – it would soon drag you back out there for more. There were some mega moments going down.
The warm water, sunshine and good vibes made Saturday and Sunday some of the best surf we've had this summer/autumn ... and it has been a stunner. Stoked.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS If you're looking for a new artwork for your home come on in and see us in our Box of Light Gallery at 8 Castle Street – directly across from the Dunedin Railway Station. We're there most days, but to be sure make an appointment: derek@boxoflight.com or 021 139 8188. You can check out some of our favourites images right here.