The window between Xmas and New Year is one of my favourites in Dunedin. The surf is empty and usually quite good (although this past week has been a bit mediocre). And locals who have long since shifted overseas return to share Xmas with their Kiwi families.
We tend to meet up at the beaches, share waves, exchange stories about great waves we've had since we last connected up and celebrate the moment. I've always enjoyed catching up with Danny Bartlett, or Russian, as he is known.
To me he epitomises what I love about surfing in Otago – that raw essence that I first discovered for myself way back in 1998. He shrugs off the cold. The adventure comes first. It always does. He lives in Narrabeen now and is part of the culture there – embraced presumably for his great character, and his thirst for adventure and pumping waves.
He hasn't ever changed (though, he'd beg to differ). Every time I see him he has a warm welcome and a new story to share. We could all learn a thing or two from him.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS I hope you all had an amazing Xmas and are revving up for New Year. Thank you for being a loyal reader over the years and for the many, many heartening emails I get from you all. Go, be merry ...