December 20th 2022: The meaning of stoke

The unexpected bonus of a run into Xmas with two-weeks, more or less, of north swell is that people become desensitised to it all. They forget to give chase. Coupled with the exodus of students from our city that means way less crowded lineups and some friendly sessions that hark back to the Dunedin surf culture of the old days. They were the heydays, after all.

Throw in a few returning locals and you're watching some great memories being created.

One of these sessions took place for five young grommets this past weekend at Whareakeake. And one old grommet. I had put down the camera and joined the five surfers who were all around 13 years old: locals Dino Walton, Flynn Dewey, Flint Sherborne and Keo Morrison, and Felix Gibbs, whose father Roger (Gibby) is a local from the '80s and now resides on the Gold Coast near Tweed Heads.

The waves were too small for the adults, but for the five young chargers it was like having their very own wave pool. Perfect waves, peeling in super clear water along the shallow sand bank with just the odd rock and sea lion to cause a ripple.

When I was 13 I was landlocked on a farm in the middle of the North Island. The back paddock was my horizon and I loved that space. But, watching these kids, taking turns surfing each wave, and hooting and laughing with each other – that was pretty cool. That was a grommethood I never had and I'm sure it is a memory that will live with these five 13-year-olds for a long time to come.

Those moments are what surfing is truly about.

See you at the beach ... Derek

PS We still have plenty of books and ready-to-hang artworks in our gallery. Come visit the Box of Light Gallery at 8 Castle Street (opposite the Dunedin Railway Station, near Koru Art) anytime this week. Or call first to make an appointment, 021 139 8188. Stay safe and have a great Xmas.