October 18th 2022: Taradise

Of all the surf regions in New Zealand Taranaki is still the one where the law of surfing is passed on in a flurry of punches, or stern warnings, or total banishments. It may sound archaic, but it actually works. It ensures the lineups are a place of respect and order. That actually makes it a lot safer for everyone in the water, too.

So it was extra special this past week when the locals of Taranaki allowed the 2022 Scholastics Surf Championships to be held at Stent Road ... with a forecast that could only be described as pumping.

To relinquish 2-3 days of prime conditions is such a show of respect to the young surfers coming through. It's also an incredible lesson in how respect works.

I saw it first hand when my young boy, Keo, entered a new lineup with 5-6 locals and immediately waited his turn and showed respect to the locals surfing in their backyard. It speaks volumes to the character of a person. Showing respect to the locals has helped me to surf some of the best waves on the planet and fundamentally I see it as being the core of surf lore. 

So, a huge thank you to the surfers of Taranaki for sharing your taonga wtih us and for your incredible hospitality as the frothiest groms on the planet chased dreams along your coastline. That week was special.

Arohanui.

See you at the beach ... Derek

PS To read the full story from the 2022 Scholastics Surf Champs head on over to NZ Surf Journal.