Normally winters in Dunedin are my favourites. Not this one. I've seen less sunshine these past few months than all my previous winters here in Dunedin (that's 13 now). Well, that's what it feels like anyway. The other big shocker this winter has been the general lack of quality waves and a corresponding and unusual influx of crowds. Winters were a time when I'd scour the coast and turn my nose up at anything not reaching more than an 8 out of 10 on my stoke-o-meter. I'd drive to all the spots and if there were 2-3 people out I'd give them a wave and drive on to the next, hopefully even better spot.
Then I'd surf alone, or with whoever else I had roped in for the trip, while Remi made sure there was not one single crumb left in any part of the car.
They were days we took for granted. We really didn't appreciate the little moments; like being too cold and unable to use the keys to open the car door, or getting the waves of our lives with no one there to see them – apart from Remi, but he's a harsh critic. I still don't know why he feels he has to lick all the windows while we're out surfing.
I'm an optimist so this winter is just a blip, surely. Next winter we'll be back to icy cold mornings and bluebird days with a constant parade of southern ground swells to help us all share the stoke.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS As you may have heard local Dunedin surfer Anna Parsons, 21, took a fall on a runout slab while rock climbing in Yosemite, USA, this past week. Anna broke nearly every bone in her body including her neck, spine, pelvis, ribs, and feet. Her left foot was beyond repair and has been amputated. Anna's medical bills already exceed $1 million so we're asking the Box of Light community to consider helping Anna on to the road to recovery by pitching in. You can do that right here. Thank you.