The forecast was questionable. Would it be big enough? Would it even be breaking? Despite a fully loaded plate of work before me, I realised I could still get a taste of this swell if I left early enough. And so I began my journey at 3:45am to a far corner of the country that may (or may not) have waves at dawn. It was very borderline, but I knew if I did not go I was going to be tortured by the fear of missing out.
A wise man once told me, "it is never too far if you really want to be there". Sage advice. And so in the darkness I found myself stumbling in and out of streams, tripping over storm surge debris and grovelling in the pre-dawn darkness to a spot where I might be able to capture an image that I have had in my head for a few years ... providing the swell is big enough.
It wasn't.
But the biggest sets were turning the lineup into a surfable wall and so I waited for the teams of tow surfers to arrive. And they did – five teams in total scrapping over the few waves on offer. But for one of the surfers their morning barrel session would end with a broken leg ...
You can check out the full story from this adventure surf right here on NZ Surf Journal.
See you at the beach ... Derek
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