Box of Light is made possible thanks to these visionaries:
Another week of incredible swell behind us and the same ahead of us this week. It barely feels like winter with so many glassy days oscillating between the South Coast and the North Coast. This past weekend both were on so that meant the crowds were way more manageable just about everywhere.
My focus became a break up on the North Coast that I first surfed 12 years ago and it was like a replica of the Supertubes section of Jeffreys Bay in South Africa. I will never forget that session. I had one wave with two barrels on it and I just had to stand there to get tubed – absolutely no skill required. I felt like a hero.
In the 12 years that have followed I have never seen the place like it again. Glimpses, yes, but my relationship with Whareakeake has become a love-hate thing – well, way more skewed toward the hate end of the scale. It mostly feels like it's tormenting me. Even the day I shot the lineup photos in this report, I came in deflated after a terrible surf. When I downloaded the photos I was even more concerned ... it was clearly pumping.
The lineup is one of the most picturesque in New Zealand, but it hides a truth of complexity and subtle whims that only the most attentive locals learn completely. You see them, on wave after wave finding perfect pockets and steep running walls, but almost never stumble across those yourself. They seem like they're having the best surf ever and I'm wondering what's wrong with the seemingly gutless waves.
Every lineup has its puzzle elements, but it seems this is a little more challenging to work out thanks to random rocks, sand build-up, swell direction, currents and wind conditions. I can see it, but haven't yet unlocked this one. It's a good "work on" to have.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS We spent some time with Jake Owen this past week – he's a super-talented young surfer and one of the hardest workers I know. He's a great long distance runner, also. He's honing his skills as an athlete and I reckon he might have the right mix to take his surfing all the way if he decides to follow that path. He's certainly one to keep an eye on.
Box of Light is made possible thanks to these visionaries: