June 1st 2021: Noodle arms

Noodle arms, yep, we all have them. If you're a surfer living in Otago then you have to wonder why the swell gods are raining such incredible swell energy upon us. We've gone from a lusty long-period south swell to a dreamy east swell as seamlessly as if we had planned it. South coast, north coast – this past week has been one for the history books.

Five days of east swell (including today, hopefully) on the heels of such a long run of small-to-medium-sized surf is why autumn is such a great season for us. That all changes now as winter officially begins. Personally, I'm kind of looking forward to a day off. My back and shoulders are burning, my surf fitness has jumped up a gear, but I'm smashed after more than five days of paddling.

Age has certainly caught up with me – but not my kids. They and their buddies can paddle out the back while holding a high-pitched conversation the whole way. I apologise now for their manner in the surf. Babbling about their waves – breaking them down in the finest detail as they paddle back while blatantly snaking the entire pack. Who would challenge a five-foot smiling assassin?

I guess when we have waves for days, we can give the kids a little extra leash in the lineup.

See you at the beach ... Derek

PS Right now as we speak Paige Hareb and Saffi Vette are fighting it out over in El Salvador for the last spots to represent New Zealand at the Tokyo Olympic Games. They're competing at the ISA World Surfing Games and both have the Olympics front and centre on their minds. We caught up with them as they were heading over ... you can read that story right here on NZ Surf Journal.