March 2nd 2021: The autumn pinch

Well, can you believe that's the end of summer? We're now officially in autumn and that's bittersweet for me. The long days are pinched back in, the warm air evaporates as soon as the sun hits the west and it's all downhill from here as far as the temperatures go.

Autumn does have some redeeming features – it's one of the best seasons for surf in Otago I reckon. Opening day didn't disappoint with a 1-2 foot east swell growing in increments of a foot every few hours until it was maxing by dark at Blackhead. There was just enough time between long-period pulses for me to paddle, with my kids, into the imminent danger of the impact zone. Completely misjudged that one. Good experience at least ...

This swell, that lasted through yesterday and remains for a few days yet has been a very under-forecast one. It had a near 20-second period at times and that was thanks to a tight little low sitting off the east coast of Auckland. It fed an intense short-period swell into the back of a large wide high – essentially throwing a heap of energy into a vacuum that directed it squarely at the Otago coastline. It is a fairly rare swell event and certainly not ideal at Blackhead or even St Kilda, but there are a list of places that may not have even been surfed that would have been very, very good.

We'll have more next week from this swell, but for now enjoy this early autumn offering ... and plan your sick days around this.

See you at the beach ... Derek

PS Our latest book Surf Dreams has been selected as one of six books shortlisted in the Lifestyle category of the 2021 New Zealand Booklovers Awards. Winners will be announced later this month ... very exciting stuff. If you haven't purchased a copy yet, we still have signed ones available right here.