There's no doubt that productivity tanked last week on Otago's coast. A run of east swell even saw some of our most prolific surfers becoming surfed out. That doesn't happen much these days. I'm quite fussy and don't get out of bed unless the waves are an eight out of 10 or better. I certainly didn't get a lot of work done at the start of last week.
There are always a couple of standouts on days like these and I have to acknowledge the performances of Jack McLeod and Ruben Peyroux. Both surfers have taken some time off to focus on surfing and they're raising the bar right up there for all the surfers along our coastline. It's so good to see. And they're both really cool men. Ruben coaches some of the younger kids and Jack is always there to show the groms what to do. In a surfing community like ours that speaks volumes. It helps to bridge the gap between pockets of talent. It helps to filter down the knowledge from those who have already been down the road of surf contests and grom comps.
Right now it feels like surfing is on the verge of another explosion in popularity. If that does happen let's hope the next crop of surf athletes can find the financial support they need to really shake things up. New Zealand is overdue for a surge onto the world stage. The Aussies did it, then the Brazilians ... surely New Zealand's star is rising?
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS We've had a huge response of pre-orders for our new book Surf Dreams – the story of New Zealand surf culture. Thank-you to everyone who placed an order. You can order your copy here – I'll even sign it for you! The book itself will be shipping at the start of November – perfect timing for Christmas presents and some summer stoke.
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