We recently had the chance to interview artist Aaron Kereopa at his home near Raglan for New Zealand Surf Journal. Aaron is Daniel's older brother and a pretty handy surfer himself. When I started surfing the points Aaron and his mates were the protectors of the Raglan waves.
As a teenager, who certainly wasn't a natural at surfing, I thank these guys for teaching me the rules of the points and surf etiquette. They made sure I learnt to respect the locals. I was an ignorant farm boy discovering the very waves that they lived and breathed every day. They ruled them with a mixture of fear and Raglan charm. I learnt the pecking order very quickly. I was at the wrong end of it.
The occasional times I did step out of order I was quickly put back in my place. I got my waves, but they were carefully picked out when my turn was up. Slowly, over many years, I moved up the order and enforced, when necessary, those below me ... passing on the teachings to the new kids nipping at our heels.
That's the only way surfing in crowded spots like Raglan can have some degree of order. It works. There may be a few snarls and there may be the odd punch thrown, but it's the most harmonious you'll ever see a lineup. Without it lineups descend into chaos and become dangerous places to surf.
What Aaron and his mates taught me armed me with the skills to surf throughout the world. The language is universal and respect earns respect. That is worth gold when Supertubes at J-Bay is approaching six foot, or when Dee Why Point is maxing.
During my Raglan days I remember seeing an old surfboard with its fibreglass stripped off and a design carved into the foam. That was around the time Aaron Kereopa first discovered his artistic talent. You'd have been able to buy that one for a case of beer back then. Twenty years later and Aaron is a superstar of the contemporary art world, creating intricate masterpieces filled with story-telling and wonder. They're still made out of surfboards and blanks, but if you're in the market for one, you'll need more than a case of beer these days.
You can check out our full video story with Aaron Kereopa on NZ Surf Journal.
See you at the beach ... Derek
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