You could have tied yourself in knots this week chasing swell around the coast. I did. From the north coast to the south, I drove way more than I should have. I spent a lot of time analysing line-ups (mostly 7/10 or better) and convincing myself that around the next corner might be something even better. And so I'd drive and when I got around that next corner something else wasn't quite right. The wind, a bit wonky. Maybe the next reef might hold better shape? It didn't.
There weren't many nooks or crannies left on the coastline that I hadn't procrastinated over. And yet, my wetsuit is still dry. Finally, after days of indecision taunted by beautiful swell pulsing through unfettered, I paddle out right back where I started: St Clair. It's still not perfect, the swell is raw, the angle is a few degrees off, but as wonky as it is, the paddle out reminds me that surfing is not just about perfect waves, of which we're spoilt here, but time in the ocean. Hunting peaks. Breathing in the fumes where the ocean wrestles beneath the weight of the atmosphere. That's a good place to be.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS The Otago Museum marks its 150th anniversary on September 12. To celebrate, they've created a special exhibition: est. 1868. Using “…est” as the curatorial driving point, the exhibition flips the script on the traditionally linear chronology of anniversary narratives. 500 objects, spanning the humanities, natural science and taoka MÄori collections, have been interpreted into thematic strands, including the biggest, smallest, rarest, quirkiest, and tastiest. We were invited to a sneak preview and were blown away. Put it on your must-do list. You can check it out right here.
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