The start of winter is also the start of the travel season for most surfers – the season when Indonesia and the Pacific Islands are lighting up with swell action forming from beneath Africa and Australia around the Antarctic generator. As far as swells go, the bigger the better. Exposed spots get even bigger and sheltered spots can turn on like never before. That last giant swell we surfed deep down south was kind of like May 1 for duck shooters. The season is officially upon us. It was followed up by a mean wedge of energy that actually missed our south eastern coast and instead went straight through the Tasman. That stretch of water is like the barrel of a rifle – focusing all that storm energy directly at the Pacific Islands; Fiji, Samoa and Tahiti, right there for the taking. But with these conditions it is Fiji that comes to life – none other than that corner of Navula Reef that is home to Cloudbreak. Of all the storms that went through the Tasman in the past few years, this was the one to drop tools and travel for. But I didn't. Instead family commitments and general life cut that notion down at the knees. Here's what went down through the eyes of the legendary Tim Bonython.
I have other friends visiting the Mentawais, some holidaying in Bali, others planning trips to exotic destinations. It's hard not to be a little bit envious.
This past week around Dunedin the surf has swung from 2-3 foot to 3-4 foot with playful glassy conditions and banks holding some beautiful peaks. And, yes, the air temps have been chilling and the water not so warm, but as far as consistency goes I have to say we are in a pretty nice part of the world. All the shots this week come from my home stretch of coast, all within walking distance from my home. I think that's pretty special. The tropics may be the stuff of schoolyard doodles, the dreams of teenage surfers and perceived as paradise by most, but shrug off the elements and I reckon New Zealand ain't such a bad place to be a surfer.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS We hung one of our large 1m x 1m limited edition framed prints above the dining table in Ben and Katie Smith's house last week. Feeling pretty stoked to have a piece in the house of one of the greatest All Black full backs ever. Want to get one for your wall? Come and chat with us. Make a gallery appointment right here.
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