This summer has been a lot of things: flat, hot, flat, flat. Probably the longest, flattest period I have ever experienced on the south coast since moving here in 2008. Thankfully there have been a few pulses on the north coast and a handful of secret magnet spots have been able to focus the scraps of south swell into 3-4-foot peaks for those lucky enough to sniff them out. Just enough size to stop the die hards from going mad and moving to the lakes of Central Otago for good.
There is a silver lining to this ridiculously settled period of weather: super warm water, soaring temperatures, crystal clear water and loads of summer peaks just perfect for the groms.
I never expected a flat spell to bring me one of my greatest moments ever in the surf – but it did last week on Saturday night when all three of my kids; Taya, Rewa and Keo, paddled into a wave by themselves as the sun set on the tiny little peak we had all to ourselves at St Clair Beach. It was a completely magic moment only outdone by their beaming faces as they paddled back for more. To share surfing with my kids and to see them get over that hump where it seems all too hard, to the place where it all makes sense and the exhiliration of riding a wall of water outshines the effort to get to that place under the feathering lip, that is one of my greatest achievements in life.
And none of that would have happened if we'd had our usual programming of thumping ground swells and brisk offshores (that's all returning on Thursday). Yes, summer, you rock!
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS Yesterday the clear water and blue, blue skies inspired me to team up with Highland Helicopters to shoot our summer coastline – there are a few teasers in this week's report, but more coming next week ... Such a cool experience to float over our beautiful, packed beaches with Captain Hoppy.
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