It's no secret. I've been squirrelled away spending time with family and friends, and surfing as much as I can these past few weeks. Apart from trialling the new Sony A9 and a quiver of Sony's best lenses, I've been off the tools for the first time since I started Box of Light. It's a rejuvenating phase for me and I've really enjoyed surfing without feeling guilty for shooting instead.
Although that last north swell did leave me with a strained shoulder and snapped my favourite board: an MG Magic Carpet, in two. And I would have captured some pretty amazing shots of those barrels. Instead this week, we have some of my favourite moments chasing waves around our coastline – those moments when the stars align, the swell pulses, the wind swings offshore and the light turns the line up into a place of magic.
You'll recognise some of these places, others are just a reminder that secret spots add a layer of fabric to the surfing cloak that add to the adventure of it all. You know how it goes: don't spill the beans and nobody gets hurt.
Enjoy some of my favourites ...
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS The Health 2000 National Surfing Championships started yesterday and run to January 13 in Gisborne. Here's the best place to follow progress of New Zealand's National Surfing Championships.
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