Sixteen people gather around the dining table. It's hardly in the imagination of what life on New Zealand's most remote high-country station would be like. But, according to owners O and Guy, the Muzzle Station homestead is a revolving door of rafters, hunters, farm workers, bee keepers, wanderers and shearers year round. It is the latter that Rewa, my assistant for this trip, and I are most fortunate to spend our time with. And the dinner table is awash with filthy language, great food, laughter and incredible stories. It's a privilege to be a part of it.
Shearing is the harvest for a high-country station and it brings out all the big guns. Like TJ Russell. He rests mosts of the year, but this is his occasion to shine. And shine he does as he transfers the bales of merino wool to their temporary resting place in the hangar. He's a "B" and a "D" short of an actual Bedford, but what he lacks in polish he makes up for in charisma. TJ Russell is as valued a member of the Muzzle family as anyone. Time, and the stories that come with it, prescribe a sense of worth in a place that often seems so fragile. TJ Russell has earned his mana here.
Rewa and I flew into Muzzle Station in the station's Cessna 180 the same day the shearers made the first crossing through the pass. It had been snowbound all winter. At the best of times, access to this station is difficult. On the day we were going to fly out the weather shut that gate. So we hitched a lift with the beekeepers – AJ and Sprat, in AJ's Hi-Lux ute. A few hours into our 4WD drive out, and about 8km from the pass, we spotted the high point of the road out – loaded with snow and our safe passage looking flimsy. We debated carrying on, but AJ insisted we take a look. Another 30 minutes driving and we reached the pass, were able to chain up and claw through the fresh snow to Kaikoura. A fitting end to one of my many adventures into this amazing part of New Zealand.
Equinox weather is upon us, but also an extra hour in the day ... spend it wisely.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS It's not very often we have a week with no swell, but this is it. Get some work done instead.