It takes a certain type of mettle to be able to surf through winter's harshest days. I chased some waves around the coastline this week – and there were plenty, but the barrier preventing me from getting to them was an invisible force of nature. And while it was invisible it definitely had teeth. I could feel them sinking into me as I ventured away from the warm buzz of the car's heater to the outside. Its teeth sliced right through my down jacket, found its way through my layers and penetrated my core. I was shivering just thinking about the battle before me – a barrage of ice-cream headaches through a minefield of rip bowls on the paddle out.
It was at that point that I decided to give myself a slap across the face. In hindsight I wished I'd waited until the older lady walking her dog had passed by – I just added another layer to the "surfers are weirdoes" theory. But it worked. I felt reinvigorated and back on task, cheeks stinging. Two quick star jumps and I was going out no matter what. Nothing could stop me now. I had even convinced myself that with this wind chill the 8°C water temperature would feel like a warm bath. I was so ready. Amped.
I couldn't believe my mind could change so quickly. I blame the frost and my terrible wetsuit management. As I reached into retrieve my wetsuit from the dry box it felt cold and when I yanked it out a cracking sound signalled there was worse to come. A small puddle in the bottom of my drybox had frozen solid. My wetsuit with it. My vest was also soaked and frozen and that would be the first part to touch my skin. I had done this as a kid – laughed the elements off, but standing here behind my car as sets rolled in just in front of me and stood in a puffer jacket with three layers underneath that and already feeling the cold, the thought of climbing into a wet, icy vest and wetsuit was too brutal to bear.
The mettle I did not have today. Tail between my legs, I carefully placed the wetsuit back. Closed the boot and jumped back in the car. Cranked the heater. Rubbed my hands. Blew hot breath on them and watched hardier souls than me take turns on a wild, windy peak directly out front. Beaten.
More of this type of weather coming our way this week. Be braver than me.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS The Kings and Queens surf team are selling a raffle, fundraising to attend the National Secondary Schools Surfing Champs in Raglan. For your chance to win a brand new custom Seer surfboard buy a raffle ticket here.
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