The north coast came to life this past week – the entire stretch of it. Dunedin is like a true surfer's paradise when those east swells start pouring in. I was particularly stoked. It lined up for my birthday, so I did what any surfer should: gave myself a day on the coast starting with a wave I first shot from the water more than 20 years ago now.
Since those days the kelp forest has grown a lot – I'm not sure if that means it hasn't broken as much or if the kelp has just found a better hold. Either way swimming through it required a special technique to avoid getting entangled or having a tentacle of kelp unbuckle my water housing mid-dive. I wrapped some around my wrist at one point and was dragged under as the next swell wandered through. Probably not the best idea.
On a Wednedsay morning there are always a few characters making the most of the reef and not your usual South Coast crew. Enjoying another quality sessison in his backyard, Josh Thickpenny put on a dazzling display of textbook turns with a keen sense for the barreling sections. Hamish Henderson and an Amercian named Jordan joined the fray, Hamish taking the biggest bombs and riding deep inside some long pinchy tubes and Jordan taking to the air, getting barreled and relishing the punchy conditions. Blue skies, whipping fronds of kelp at my ankles and the occassional five-foot set made it a memorable birthday session.
We have five signed prints from local artist and surfer Justin Summerton that he is donating to young Dunedin surfer Elliott Brown's ISA World Surfing Championship campaign. One of New Zealand's great artists, Justin said that Elliott's cause was a worthy one and inspired him.
"He is such a great surfer and he really has the skills to do well on the world stage," he explains. "I would have loved to have had the oppotunity he has now and I want to see him make the most of it."
"Back in my time we could only raise funds by working at the Burnside freezing works," he laughs. "I remember 15-year-olds working alongside grown men, just so they could raise the money to get to the North Island events."
"Elliott has the talent to really make a go of it and I'm stoked to be able to help him."
Justin's prints will be available for viewing at the Box of Light Gallery at 1 Dowling Street, Dunedin from today. They start from $50 with all proceeds from their sale going directly to Elliott Brown. Inspired by Justin, we're also gifting the proceeds of five of our signed Seasons books to Elliott. First in frst served.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS Elliott Brown is running a fundraising page to help him represent New Zealand at the ISA Junior World Surfing Championships to be held at the Azores Isands in September. Help support the future of surfing in New Zealand.
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