Getting a session with two of the best surfers in the country is always going to be a fun time. That’s what happened this past week as the first pulse from Cyclone Victor hit our North Coast. Joining local National Surf Champ finalist JC Susan was Zen Wallis and his girlfriend Christina Funck.
Zen is 24 and while he didn’t make the finals of the Open Men’s event with JC, he did take out the Longboard National Championship title for 2016.
“It’s the first time I’ve won the Open Longboard title,” he admits as we drive out to Aramoana in the pre-dawn glow. “I won a Junior title back in the Under 18s in 2009 and that was what really got me into it. Leroy Rust actually came up to Piha that year and he lent me one of his boards. My board was not really very good, so he let me use his good one and he was competing in the division with me.”
Zen and Leroy both ended up in the final.
“It shows his character to let me keep using it. I felt a little bit of guilt beating him on his own board. But I am also super-appreciative because that is what got me into it. Since then my sponsor Paul Shanks started making me really good longboards and we kept refining them – now I have an epic board.”
Back at home, Zen runs the successful Piha Surf School with his Dad.
“Doing the surf school is something I really love and seeing all the grommets coming up and helping them improve is really rewarding,” he explains. “Summer is really busy being so close to Auckland, but we try to do a really good job and make people as stoked as possible so they tell their friends.”
Part of the key to the success of the school is Zen’s natural teaching style and his drive to fine-tune his coaching craft.
“We’ve been doing it for a long time and so we know what techniques work and which ones don't. We know the fastest way to get results.”
He said that it was a flexible business that allowed him to chase surf along the East Coast when a swell was running and gave him the freedom to do contests.
“I’m not obligated to do contests, but I do them all anyway – I just love them so much,” he smiles. “I enjoy doing them. Of course, it is frustrating when I get knocked out like I did in the Open Men’s this year – I wanted to do better. But I have lost many times, especially when I was younger – I used to lose every single contest – so I have learnt how to lose and it doesn’t really make a difference to me now. It isn’t going to ruin anything – you just keep going until you get the one that comes together – it’s the nature of surfing – no one wins every time.”
Zen said he was confident going into the Longboard final this year, but he knew coming up against current Ultimate Waterman titleholder, Daniel Kereopa, would be a big task.
“I knew I had to get it all together, surf a really good heat and get the waves. I managed to do that and St Clair turned it on with good waves, so I could really open up and go for it. That made me very happy,” he laughs.
“I plan on surfing for the rest of my life and I love competing, so I’m keen to see how many titles I can win.”
Zen tacked a few extra days onto his Dunedin trip at the start and end of the Nationals so he could indulge in some of the best waves of the South Island with his girlfriend. He first met Christina in June 2012 during a trip to California. The pair have been like soul mates ever since. She’s only been surfing for two years, but has been on an accelerated learning curve.
“Zen’s not only my boyfriend, but he’s also my surf coach and my best friend,” she smiles. “It all works quite well. His constant coaching has really helped me to get hold of surfing.”
Christina grew up at Huntington Beach and plans to return to America for two years to complete her study in marine plant ecology.
“I’ll finish up my study in America and then move back here,” she asserts. “As bad as it sounds, I am gutted to be going back to California. I’ve been here for two years and I hope to get my residency. New Zealand has become home to me and I’ll be back here as soon as I can.”
At the end of our super glassy session on the North Coast Zen and Christina start making plans to surf with Hector’s dolphins in the Catlins. Their eyes light up as their adventure begins to take shape. It’s clear they’re thriving on it.
See you at the beach … Derek
PS A group has been formed to urge the Dunedin City Council to take some educated action around the dramatic erosion that is occurring as a result of the sea wall design at St Clair. Anyone is welcomed to join the St Clair Action Group on Facebook – here’s the link.
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