
After seven years away, returning to the Northern Beaches of Sydney is a like a blessing and a curse. I had forgotten a lot about what makes this place so great. I'd forgotten that the surf is mostly small, the water mostly warm and the beaches laden with happy, happy people. I'd forgotten that the coastline is convoluted and raw in places – enough to hide pockets of waves from the masses. I'd forgotten that nearly everyone in this city surfs. I'd forgotten that because of that surfing is real easy here ... freshwater showers at every beach, caparks right to the shoreline, boardshops on every corner and to stand dripping wet in boardshorts as you order a coffee is just normal. The barista even wanted to know how the waves were so he could weave one into his own lunch break.
Surfing here is normal. It's nothing special. It's just what you do. Paddleboarders, bodyboarders, shortboarders, MG riders, bodysurfers, mal riders, swimmers ... it's all the same: it's about that connection we all have within us that just makes us want to be in the ocean doing whatever it is we do. The barriers to entry here are low. No wetsuit required, no ticket, just the ability to walk 100m and sink into a mostly calm, mostly mellow sea.
Sure, of the five days we've been here only two have had decent waves, but if you're a grom, then this place is paradise. The little runners along the many sand banks are the perfect surf primary school. Then there is the crystal clear water and frequent visits by bottlenose dolphins (haven't had a surf yet without seeing a few). Yep, this is a good life by the sea right here.
No waves in the forecast for Sydney until next week, but plenty peaks for the groms and a good week to go exploring ... that's where we will be. Back in Dunedin, here's your week's bounty.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS Our friends at Watercooled Sports on Kitchener St in Dunedin have just started a demo programme for paddleboards and surfboards ... how cool is that? Try before you buy at its best.











