Life sometimes gets in the way. Like slaving over tax returns or preparing a new pitch for a new client to wrestling with a wayward project that needs to hit its deadline. Or being midway through renovations when you realise the timing is terrible and the budget completely blown. And just trying to keep the family fed and the bills paid and the dream end meeting the pointy end. Sometimes it's a tough life.
Surfers though have an escape that transcends all others. It doesn't destroy us. It builds us.
There is something about saltwater being forced into your sinuses and long hold downs that give you enough time to reflect on life that rinse the pressures completely away. I was lucky enough to paddle out into some chunky, wrong tide, imploding walls at St Kilda this past weekend. I was inspired by James Murphy and Elliott Brown – a couple of super-talented groms less than half my age riding deep in closeout barrels like they owned the peak (they did). I made very few waves (they made it look way easier than it was). But the 50-50 saltwater and sand rinsing I got was exactly what I needed.
I repeated it all again for the next few days. Still have sand spilling out of my ears.
See you at the beach ... Derek
PS Our gallery is open from Friday – come on in and check out our framed prints and see if there is something there to brighten your home. Here's a sneak peek.
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