I love it when the southerly wind blows. Not just because we get snow down to sea-level, but the weather system that is required to bring all the white stuff is usually the same system required to bring giant swell to the southern coastline. This week was extraordinary.
It all started for me on Tuesday as the swell started to build and a few brave souls ventured out into some warping lines at St Clair and St Kilda. Then, on Wednesday, I headed into the Catlins to the big wave break of Papatowai. It was one of the biggest days I have seen there and a light offshore wind groomed the gigantic peaks perfectly. Tackling the beast were Nick Smart and Brad Roberts, both Papas regulars and making the most of the weather window riding dozens of the "10-15 foot waves". I estimate one or two of them actualy nudged 25 foot.
It's amazing to watch these sessions – Nick rode through a few barrels and they both took horrendous beatings at various points. I don't know how they didn't get their limbs ripped off on some of them – the whitewater is so violent it often erupts higher than the original wave face.
A few days later I saw Nick down at the Southern Slab – another oversized reef break in the Catlins and he admitted his legs and body were still sore from surfing Papas. This time, surfing the Southern Slab were a few more big wave riders including Jimi Crooks, Tom Bracegirdle, Jamie Gordon, Tim Searing, Davy Wooffindin, James Steiner, Brad Roberts and Dale Hunter. Tom was just back from Teahupoo in Tahiti, but right at home on his backhand in the wild slab wave. Dale was in his first surf back from an injury, but stepped right back into the fray with some amazing rides.
There's no doubt that this coastline is loaded with some of the best waves in the Southern Hemisphere when the stars align ... as they did this past week. They are waves of consequence. Waves that dwarf most of us.
See you at the beach ...
Derek
PS Don't forget to put the date for the Dunedin Craft Beer and Food Festival in your diary: October 4.
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